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Ohio River

 

Markland Dam (Mile 531.5) to Warsaw, Kentucky (Mile 528)

 

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

 

 

Yes, I admit it.  The last time I was out here I bit off a little more than I could chew and I had to pass up a section.  It was my first trip on the Ohio River and I wasn’t sure what to expect.  Today I wanted to rectify that situation while also exploring the area between the Markland Dam and Warsaw. 

 

The charts for this section (102 and 103) are available online, but let me mention for the sake on continuity that I’ll be describing this trip in an upriver fashion despite the fact that I started at the furthest upriver point in Warsaw, Kentucky.  I don't usually like to paddle downstream unless, as was the case today, there's no appreciable current. The reason is that you don't want to be at the farthest point out and then have to paddle against the current when you're a little more tired later in the day.  Also, paddling upriver eliminates any unpleasant surprises in navigaion on a stream that you might not be familiar with. 

 

At any rate, I got my gear together and started paddling down toward the dam as a set of barges floated by under the escort of a Marathon Oil's push boat, "The Cincinnati".  Marathon was pretty busy today.  A second set of their barges passed me by before I got all the way to the dam, this time being pushed by "The Detroit".

 

 

The dam is a pretty foreboding sight as you approach it, by the way.  This was m first encounter with an Ohio River dam.  All my previous experience had come on the Kentucky River where the structures had been smaller in scope and the locks for them no longer operating.  Thus, I made my approach well on the lock or Kentucky side.  I certainly wasn’t going to chance approaching from the other side!  With my luck, I’d get caught by a current and go over - certain death!  Besides, the lock side was intimidating enough as it was!  I really hugged that shoreline as I tried to catch a glimpse of what the landscape might look like up by the corner of the lock.  My thought was that if I could somehow beach my boat and get up onshore I might be able to get a better view of the boats locking through – a process I’d never before witnessed.  In the end, however, I didn’t get all the way - I lost my nerve!  I saw no easy take-out points in any case.

 

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile, I’d heard the lock-through process can take some time, and since nothing yet seemed to be happening on this front, I decided to see if I could get a better view from across the water.  However...  Prior to making that crossing I first paddled back away from the structure about ½ mile for an extra measure of safety and then paddled slowly in an upriver arc to cross, only changing direction slightly past mid-river to head directly toward the opposite shoreline.  Once there, I found it to be a little trash strewn, although otherwise pretty pleasant with a nicely forested bank.  As far as the northeast corner of the dam, it appeared to contain a marsh-like area (although I didn’t get too close to find out more).

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile, I didn’t forget to keep an eye on what was happening across the way.  Apparently the pushboats come up to lock gate, and once all is clear the gate is lifted and they enter into an inner chamber which will then lower them to the same level as exists on the opposite side of the dam.  I watched as the Detroit sloooowly submerged and disappeared from sight.

 

OK…  Since I’m technically starting my trip at this point, I’ll mention here that this section of river has roads which follow it for its entire length – Indiana 156 on the Indiana side and US42 on the Kentucky side.  There are also two creeks which drain into the Ohio just before mile 530:  Dan's Creek on the Indiana side and Craigs Creek on the Kentucky side.  I checked out Dans' first…

 

Just inside the mouth of Dan's Creek you'll find a beautiful riverboat casino - the Miss Belterra - part of the Belterra Casino complex which contains the tallest building for miles, a hotel.  NOTE:  I'm note sure the boat is still here.  I know that since gamling restrictions have been lifted in our country that gambling amid a neutral location like a boat on the water is no longer necessary.  Indeed, I saw that the Casino Aztar boat in Evansville is no longer around.  Now I think I made it back into Dan's about 200 – 300 yards, but to be honest I lost track of my paddle count.  I was distracted both by the boat and by the spectacular swan I encountered in the second photo!

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile, Craigs Creek Cove on the Kentucky side was a pretty sizeable one with a lot going on.  The first photo below shows the entrance.  I got back just shy of 2 miles.  Directly inside the mouth you'll find two boat ramps.  The one on the right was public, and it looks to be a short drive southeast from the US42/Knox-Lilliard Road intersection.  This is the ramp I’d suggest using if you’d like to explore this section (see second photo below).  As for the ramp on the other side, it belongs to the Smugglers Cove Marina, formerly Dan's Marina (this Dan must have been quite a guy for both a marina and a creek named after him!). 

 

 

 

 

Anyway, this cove spreads in a few directions.  Me, I headed back and to the right, eventually reaching a “T” about 1 ¼ miles in.  There were 2 low bridges here, just negotiable to the paddler but perhaps a bit too low for a power boat.  Both directions were navigable past the bridges, but I didn’t have enough time to explore both so I opted for the one on the right - Craigs Creek itself. 

 

After negotiating the bridge you’ll be in a totally different environment compared to all the boats and houses you’ll have seen to this point.  It looks much more like a wilderness back here.  It also branches again, so just to be consistent I first headed to the right, soon finding myself in a very low lying area where the houses had returned.  “Hmmm…  This is getting a little too up close and personal.”  I thought.  “I think it’s time to head back now!” 

 

I then tried the branch to the left and found a beautiful environment near the end...

 

 

 

I also had a meeting with a pretty bold little turtle that held it's ground long enough for me to get a decent picture…

 

 

 

Back to the Ohio  Just as you emerge from Craigs Creek there’s a nice looking restaurant with a great deck on the Kentucky side where you might spend some quality time with the river – the Sunset Grill – and just upriver from this is another interesting spot where a few old barges have been left discarded.  In fact, a couple appear to have been made into a makeshift dock.

 

Meanwhile, the Turtle Creek enters at mile 529 on the north side of the river on the outskirts of Florence, Indiana.  I didn’t paddle in since it looked pretty crowded with boats.  Indeed, there’s a lot going on here with both the Turtle Creek Harbor and the Mermaid Cove Marina.  There's also a Marathon station for boats!

 

 

…and speaking of looking nice, check out Warsaw, Kentucky on the other side at mile 528…  What an inviting looking place!  The ramp you see in the center of the second photo below is the one I used at the end of Main Cross Street in the center of town, but there appear to be other options as well.

 

 

 

 

 

On a side note, there’s an ancient ramp just downriver from Warsaw on the Indiana side.  It doesn’t look to be solid enough for power boats, but it would be OK for paddlers.  Seems there’s a pull-off from the side of the road - IN 156 - from which you can access it.  Also passing me at about this point was the Steven J Mason of the Ingram Barge Company...

 

 

 

It was from here on that I was exploring the aforementioned area that I missed the last time in Indiana.  Once again, the shoreline is very nicely forested in this section, and the foliage reminded me of just how close we were getting to fall - the leaves were just beginning to change color. 

 

I also met what I believe was an osprey in this section.  These birds are simply amazing the way they fish!  You’ll catch them out of the corner of your eye as they swoop down from whatever tree they’ve been perched upon and hit the water – hard! – to grab their prey.  You’d think they might hurt themselves hitting the water so heavily, but it’s quite a spectacle.

 

 

 

Last up – Bryant Creek.  This one appears to be quite private at first, but that’ll soon change with a public ramp back on the left and quite a few boats and dwellings on the right.  I got in about 1 ¼ miles.  In terms of navigability this cove is “A” shaped, with 2 points of drainage into the Ohio and a tiny little island in the middle.  I encountered a heron in here with a great perch to start…

 

 

 

…and I also thought the fallen tree below made for an interesting sight…

 

 

 

This cove gets really shallow at the furthest point and the fish were really enjoying it.  In fact, all it seems you’d need is a canoe or kayak and a net!  They were jumping all around me.  Even the ones I couldn’t see left telltale swooshes of mud in the water.

 

Anyway, emerging back onto the Ohio from the other side of the “A”, I was intrigued by the sight of a little pier out in the middle of nowhere and I crossed back to the Kentucky side at about the same point I did last time, across from a really grand house.  I got back to Warsaw barely before dark.

 

 

 

The ramp and park look pretty safe, by the way, but I did notice a certain element which might be of concern if you arrive solo much later than that.  I say might because my instincts as far as people’s tendencies are usually wrong.  As always, however, pick your spots and be please careful out there – bring a phone too.

 

DIRECTIONS:

 

From Cincinnati:

 

I took the Verona exit off of I71 and headed north on KY14 until it dead-ended at a combined US42/127 in 2.5 miles.  Then taking a left, I simply kept following the US42 signs until I reached Warsaw, Kentucky.  I took a right on 1st Street (before the Family Dollar) and eventually spotted the ramp right down by the water, but there are about 3 streets you can take a right on and still arrive at the same place.  Look for the little pier and picnic canopy.

 

From Louisville:

 

Take the KY35 exit off I71 and head north directly into downtown Warsaw.  Then, if you just keep going north (around the old courthouse) toward the water you’ll wind up at the ramp and park.